Bozcaada, known in antiquity as Tenedos, is a small but rooted island in the northern Aegean, off the coast of Çanakkale. Although it is the smallest district of Turkey, three of its sides are surrounded by the salty waters of the Çanakkale Strait, and its north by the cool current of the Black Sea; this unique geographical position brings to the island both the mild wind of the Aegean and the refreshing effect of the strait. The closest point of the island to the mainland is about 7 nautical miles away, and this short distance turns reaching the island not into a difficult sea voyage but into a short ferry ride. The subject of access to Bozcaada is always the Geyikli pier; this small coastal town, attached to the Ezine district of Çanakkale, is the island's gateway on the mainland, and the ferries departing from here bring the island traveller to the harbour in about 30-40 minutes. In this article, we examine how to get to Bozcaada in ten chapters: the Geyikli ferry, getting to Geyikli, ferry tips and booking, transport on the island, taking a car on the ferry, bus and coach options, arriving by private boat and yacht, frequently asked questions, and conclusion. Our aim is to gather in a single compass all the transport decisions the traveller will experience from setting out from Istanbul, Izmir, Ankara, or any other city to arriving at the island's harbour. Because the journey to Bozcaada begins before setting foot on the island; knowing the rhythm of this journey is the first step of the island holiday.
The Geyikli Ferry
The Geyikli pier is a small coastal settlement located about 45 km from Çanakkale centre and 15 km from the Ezine district. The traveller reaching the pier encounters two types of ferry options: the traditional passenger ferry and the modern car ferry. The passenger ferry carries only pedestrians and bicycles; the car ferry carries both pedestrians and land vehicles such as cars, minibuses, and trucks. Both ferries are operated by an undertaking under the supervision of the Ministry of Food, Agriculture, and Livestock; therefore, ticket prices are set not seasonally but on a fixed tariff throughout the year.
The number of ferry sailings varies greatly by season. In the winter months (November-March), 2-3 sailings are made per day, while in the summer season (June-September), this number rises to 6-8 sailings; additional sailings are put on at weekends and public holidays. Sailing hours are between 06:00 in the morning and 24:00 at night, but the hours may change according to wind and sea conditions; therefore, the traveller must check the current timetable from the official website of GESTAŞ before departure.
The journey time varies between 30-45 minutes depending on the type of ferry and weather conditions. Modern car ferries reach the island harbour in 30 minutes when the sea is calm; the older passenger ferry is slower and takes an average of 40 minutes. During the journey, the traveller travels standing on the deck or sitting in the saloon; watching from the deck the scenery of the Çanakkale Strait, the windmills, and the gradually growing silhouette of the island is one of the finest moments of the journey.
Ticket prices (as of summer 2024) are approximately as follows: pedestrian passenger 60-80 TL, student 40-50 TL, car and driver 350-450 TL, motorcycle 100-150 TL. Tickets are bought at the pier's box office or through GESTAŞ's online system; the online ticket is the most practical way to avoid waiting in long queues in the summer season. The choice between the passenger ferry and the car ferry depends on whether the traveller needs a car on the island; this topic is addressed in detail in the following sections.
Getting to Geyikli
Access to the Geyikli pier is provided from three main cities: Istanbul, Izmir, and Çanakkale. The road access from Istanbul to Geyikli is about 320 km and takes an average of 4-4.5 hours by car. The road goes from Istanbul in the direction of Çanakkale, via the Kınalı-Çanakkale highway; after crossing the Gallipoli Peninsula, it reaches Geyikli via Lapseki, Çan, and Ezine. With the opening of the 18 March Çanakkale Bridge, the transit time from Istanbul to Çanakkale has shortened significantly; this bridge provides passage from the European side to Anatolia in 6 minutes and offers a great advantage for avoiding the Gallipoli ferry queues in the summer season.
Access from Izmir to Geyikli is about 280 km and takes 3.5-4 hours by car. The road follows the Izmir-Çanakkale highway via Kınık, Ayvalık, or Burhaniye; this route is surrounded by the olive grove scenery of the Aegean and has less traffic density in summer.
Access from Çanakkale centre to Geyikli is the shortest route; the 45 km distance takes 45-55 minutes by car. Minibuses departing from Çanakkale carry passengers to the Geyikli pier with frequent sailings in the summer season. This route is ideal for travellers staying in Çanakkale or those who do not wish to come by ferry from the city centre.
For those who wish to travel by bus, long-distance coaches departing from Istanbul, Izmir, and Ankara go as far as the Ezine bus terminal; from there, travellers reach the pier by dolmuş (shared minibus) departing for the Geyikli pier (every 20-30 minutes in the summer season). The traveller preferring public transport should synchronise the coach arrival time with the ferry sailing hours when planning the trip; otherwise, he may have to wait at the pier for a few hours.
Ferry Tips and Booking
The Geyikli ferry is the most sensitive point of the island traveller in the summer season; in July-August, and especially on Friday evening and Sunday evening, long queues form at the pier. Cars arriving from Istanbul on Friday evening may reach the pier and wait for hours; on Sunday evening, the queue of cars returning from the island can extend several kilometres behind the pier. This density arises from the limited capacity of the ferries and the inability of the number of sailings to fully meet the demand.
The most important rule for the traveller who will travel by car ferry in the busy period is to arrive at the pier at least 1-2 hours before the sailing time. Cars wishing to catch the first sailing on Friday evening may come to the pier from Thursday evening and wait; this is not an exaggerated precaution but almost a rule in the last weeks of August. Queueing is less of a problem for the pedestrian passenger; the pedestrian can arrive at the pier 15-20 minutes before the departure time and board the sailing with a ticket.
Online ticket purchase is one of the greatest advantages in the summer season. A ticket bought through the official website or mobile application of GESTAŞ prevents the traveller from waiting in the box-office queue at the pier; however, the online ticket requires being physically present at the pier before the departure time. Even if you have an online ticket, be at the pier on time to catch the ferry's departure; otherwise, the ticket burns and you have to wait for the next sailing.
Wind and sea conditions are natural factors affecting ferry sailings. The north-easterly (poyraz) and south-westerly (lodos) winds seen in September-October sometimes cause sailings to be cancelled; the cancelled sailing is transferred to the next sailing, and the queue grows longer. Therefore, the traveller should follow the weather forecast on the journey date and, if possible, plan a flexible return date. Early morning sailings should be preferred because they are usually less windy and less crowded.
Transport on the Island
Transport on Bozcaada is extremely limited and simple due to the small surface area of the island; the island has a surface area of about 38 km² and a single main road. The town, which is the centre of the island, is small enough to be explored on foot; the harbour, hotels, restaurants, and bazaar are within 5-10 minutes' walking distance of each other. Therefore, the traveller staying in the town does not need to rent a car; however, a means of transport is necessary for those who wish to reach the inland parts of the island, the beaches, and the vineyard road.
The bicycle is the most beloved means of transport on the island; a few bicycle rental shops at the harbour rent bicycles by the hour or by the day. The flat and quiet roads of the island are suitable for bicycles; however, the sun and wind in summer can be tiring over long distances. The bicycle is both environmentally friendly and the form of transport best suited to the rhythm of the island; it is an ideal option for reaching the beaches and the vineyard road.
Scooter and motorcycle rental is an increasingly common alternative on the island; automatic scooters are a practical option for short distances and have no parking problem. Scooter rental requires a driving licence and has a daily cost in the range of 300-500 TL. On the narrow and stone-paved roads of the island, the scooter is a vehicle more manoeuvrable and consuming less fuel than a car.
Taxis are limited in number on the island; calling a taxi in the summer season can sometimes be difficult. The taxi is useful especially for the return from the beach or for the return to the hotel after dinner; however, walking, bicycle, or rental car are more rational solutions than relying on a taxi on the island.
Car rental is the most comfortable option for travellers who will stay on the island for a few days and explore every corner of the island. There are a few local car rental companies on the island; reservation is mandatory in the summer season. Renting a car is sensible for the traveller who does not come to the island by car ferry; however, when driving on the island, attention must be paid to narrow streets, limited parking space, and summer crowds.
Taking a Car on the Ferry
Whether or not to come to the island with your own car is one of the most important transport decisions of the island holiday. This decision depends on how long the traveller will stay on the island, in which season he comes, and how much mobility he wants on the island. For a town holiday of a few days, a car is not essential; the hotels, restaurants, and beaches around the harbour are within walking or cycling distance. However, for stays of a week or more, for those who wish to explore the inland parts of the island, the distant beaches (Poyraz, Ayazma, Habbele), and the vineyard road, a car provides great convenience.
The cost of loading the car onto the ferry is approximately 350-450 TL as of summer 2024; this fee covers the driver, but other passengers have to buy separate tickets. The car ferry is more expensive and more crowded than the pedestrian ferry; in the summer season, the queue is much longer than that of the pedestrian ferry. Therefore, bringing a car is sensible only if it will really be used on the island; if you will park it on the island and not use it at all, it is more economical to leave the car on the mainland and come as a pedestrian.
The traveller who brings his car to the island must pay attention to parking; finding a parking space in the town centre in the summer season can be difficult. If the hotel has no car park, the paid car parks around the harbour should be used; respecting pedestrians and bicycles in the narrow streets of the island is the basic rule of driving.
Bus and Coach Options
Reaching Bozcaada by bus is suitable for the budget-friendly traveller who prefers public transport. Long-distance coaches departing from big cities such as Istanbul, Ankara, and Izmir go as far as the Çanakkale or Ezine bus terminal; from there, travellers reach the pier by minibus or dolmuş departing for the Geyikli pier. This transfer extends the traveller's journey time by one or two hours; however, it is the most rational way for the traveller with a limited budget or who does not wish to drive.
The minibuses running from Çanakkale to Geyikli depart every 30 minutes in the summer season, and the journey takes about 45 minutes. These minibuses drop the passenger in front of the pier and are arranged according to the ferry departure time; therefore, the minibus time and the ferry time are synchronised. From Ezine to Geyikli, there are even more frequent services; the dolmuşes departing from the Ezine bus terminal reach the pier in 20 minutes.
In the summer season (June-September), some coach companies may put summer-season services from Istanbul directly to the Geyikli pier; these services are planned specifically for the island holidaymaker and require no transfer. These direct services operate in July-August in the form of Friday evening departure and Sunday evening return. The traveller preferring this option should check the sailing times in advance on the websites of the coach companies and know that this option is not available outside the summer season.
The most important rule for the bus passenger is to buy the ferry ticket online before the coach arrives and to be ready at the sailing time on arrival at the pier; otherwise, one has to wait at the pier for the next sailing.
Arriving by Private Boat and Yacht
Reaching Bozcaada by sea with a private boat or yacht is the option most compatible with the island's sea culture. The Bozcaada Harbour on the north of the island is a suitable shelter for both fishing boats and yachts; the harbour is protected against north and north-easterly winds, but since it is open to the south wind, weather monitoring is necessary. There are a few buoys and pier places reserved for yachts in the harbour; to find a place in the summer season, early arrival or prior notice is important.
The harbour authorities request an entry formalité and, if required, a transit log from arriving yachts; these formalities are carried out in a manner similar to border-crossing formalities. Water, fuel, and electricity supply are possible at the harbour; the fishing boats around the harbour provide fresh seafood, and this is a separate pleasure for the yacht passenger.
The southern coasts of the island offer suitable anchoring areas for yachts, such as the Aphrodite rocks and Ayazma cove; these coves are ideal for day anchoring and a swimming break. However, most of these coves, due to their positions facing the open sea, do not provide shelter in the south-westerly and south wind; therefore, when the weather turns bad, the yacht has to return to the harbour.
The traveller arriving by private boat experiences a Bozcaada experience away from the touristy crowds, from the sea window; a yacht anchored in the harbour or in the coves is one of the most refined forms of accommodation on the island. This option is not for everyone, since it requires seamanship experience and a suitable boat; however, for those who have the means, it is one of the most spectacular ways of arriving on the island.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I buy my ferry ticket?
In the summer season (June-September), the ferry ticket should be bought online at least one week in advance, especially for Friday and Sunday. In the winter months, the ticket can easily be bought at the pier at the sailing time. The online ticket is the best way to avoid waiting in the box-office queue; however, even if you have an online ticket, you must be ready at the pier at least 30 minutes before the sailing time.
Where can the ferry sailing hours be learnt?
The official website of GESTAŞ (gestas.com.tr) and its mobile application publish the current sailing hours. Sailing hours change seasonally; in the winter timetable, 2-3 sailings are made, and in the summer timetable, 6-8 sailings. Since the hours may change according to weather conditions, be sure to check the current timetable before departure.
Do I have to bring my car to the island?
No; if you are staying on the island for a few days and will only wander around the town, a car is not necessary. Transport on the island is possible by bicycle, scooter, and taxi; car rental is also available on the island. Whether to bring the car depends on your length of stay and how much mobility you want on the island.
Is there public transport on the island?
Public transport on Bozcaada is limited; there is no municipal bus or ring service on the island. In the summer season, private services may operate to some beaches and to the vineyard road; however, these services work on demand, not on a fixed timetable. Therefore, on the island, you need to solve your own transport by bicycle, scooter, taxi, or rental car.
How does the Çanakkale Bridge affect the ferry journey?
The 18 March Çanakkale Bridge allows vehicles coming from Istanbul and Thrace to cross the Çanakkale Strait without a ferry; this shortens the road access from Istanbul to Geyikli by 1-1.5 hours. The bridge is the most important alternative for avoiding the Gallipoli ferry queues; however, the bridge is tolled, and in the summer season, you may also have to wait at the bridge toll booths.
Can a ferry sailing be cancelled in the wind?
Yes; in strong north-easterly (poyraz) or south-westerly (lodos) wind, when the sea condition deteriorates, ferry sailings can be cancelled. The cancelled sailing is transferred to the next sailing, and the queue grows longer. These cancellations are more frequent in September-October; therefore, follow the weather forecast on the journey date and, if possible, plan a flexible return date.
Conclusion
Reaching Bozcaada is a journey simpler than it appears but varying with the season. The ten chapters summarised in this article gathered in a single compass all the transport decisions the traveller will experience from setting out from Istanbul, Izmir, Çanakkale, or another city to arriving at the island's harbour: the Geyikli ferry, road access to Geyikli, ferry tips, transport on the island, taking a car, bus options, and arrival by private boat. What matters is to come in season, to buy the ferry ticket in advance, to be at the pier on time, and to decide what kind of mobility you want on the island. When you come to Bozcaada, take this article as a starting point; however, the real journey begins the moment you set foot in the island's harbour and see the windmills. Have a good journey.